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APPLICATOR/CONTRACTOR QUESTIONS
1. I like most of the products I am using but I feel STUCK with one manufacturer! I'd like to use the best products from each but they make it so CONFUSING. What can I do? Click Here For Answer
2. What's the best type of overlay to apply over an acid stained and sealed slab (sealed with solvent based acrylic sealer a few months ago)? The desired finish is a slate-like texture. Does the slab need to be ground down first, or stripped? Click Here For Answer
3. I've been using a single manufacturer overlay stamp mix and polymer for the past few years. Lately, we have been having problems with almost every job that was done outside. The finish tends to crack and delaminate all over. This only happens on outside jobs. Everything we have done inside is fine. I'm wondering why, and what can I do to prevent further problems? I have called the manufacturer, and they tell me we must be doing something wrong, and we should attend an advanced workshop. The cracks are tiny and short but there are thousands of them. This is in EVERY job done outside as of late. Can anyone out there give me a solution? Click Here For Answer
4. I have an overlay that is lifting all over. It's on a garage floor and I'm wondering how long it will last before popping out? A corner piece of the stamp overlay was chipped by a clock falling off the wall. When I say "chipped", I mean right down to the base concrete. I'm just wondering how other people handle this issue. Click Here For Answer
5. My stamped driveway was completed 2 weeks ago, using an integral color, and powder release. I applied a light pressure wash to remove excess powder release. I want to seal it next spring (6 months from now), because it's not cured out, and it will be too cold once cured to apply the sealer. What special prep would you recommend to minimize tire marks or other stains before final sealing? Click Here For Answer
6. I have a driveway that was poured by a fly by night crew. They SAY? the finish was acceptable, and now that the concrete was set, it was impossible to correct. I want it to look a lot better but I am unwilling to put any more dollars into this crew. Is there an inexpensive solution which will hold up under traffic? This is an airport residence with a hangar. There is nothing wrong structurally though. Just lots of ugly broom marks and places the finish was not done properly. Any help will be appreciated. Click Here For Answer
7. I am dissatisfied with the manufacturer and training I received to date. I have some failure issues on my first applications, and my supplier keeps telling me it is due to applicator error.
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8. I want to send more of my people to training for repair and resurfacing. The class costs are reasonable but salaries, expenses and loss of time make it really expensive. We can't find a 'good time' so we just keep learning the hard way. Can I get training on the job or at least in our area? Click Here For Answer
9. My workforce is primarily Hispanic. Sometimes it's difficult to bridge the language barrier for training. Where can I get training in Spanish? Click Here For Answer
ANSWERS
1. There are numerous products and systems available on the marketplace. For the best stamping overlay, we recommend the product with the longest documented success story, and systems designed by veterans of the industry. Our featured product is rated based on ease of application, consistency, duplicity, and documented longevity. Our recommended ¼" stamping overlay is No. 1 in Las Vegas. With over 15 years of application experience as contractors, we look for cost efficient, easy to use and duplicable systems, with a proven history. If you really want to learn about 1/4" stamping, let's start by taking the mystery out of the equation. Stamping overlays consist of some very basic and known ingredients: Cement and sand, water and the "secret ingredient": Acrylic Polymer. We teach you how to mix your own, and add the proper ratios of polymer and water. Pre-mixed bags of cement and silica sand offer ease of use, and consistency. The formula we recommend, along with the application procedures we teach, has worked for over 15 years, and we have stamped overlay surfaces down on large commercial projects for the same amount of time. We are bias to a specific polymer due to our success with its formula. There is a lot more to say, and you don't have to go to training. If you are interested in on line training, DVD and downloadable step by step instructions, with the ability to buy any products you want, then please email your request to info@concreteresurfacingnetwork.com to receive your personal invitation to several links in order to gain the information you seek, the education you need, and access to a concrete resurfacing on line superstore, featuring all of the products and tools you might be interested in. Back To Top
2. Shot blasting or stripping back to original concrete is the only way to guarantee the longevity of your work. However, if there are no visible signs of hydrostatic issues (moisture problems) and no visible delamination, then you may opt to soften the acrylic urethane sealer with an application of Xylene or other high solvent sealer blend - FYI: Ensure adequate ventilation and aeration so that the fumes do NOT penetrate a central air system, and make sure your crew is wearing approved respirators and filters for chemical vapor - Once the coating is softened, broadcast some silica sand to achieve complete coverage. Allow to dry, and remove all excess sand. Now apply a primer epoxy (we have countless success with a specific epoxy originally designed for high stress marine environments), and broadcast silica atop the epoxy to create a beach. Allow to set 8 to 12 hours (based on interior controlled temperatures). Remove excess sand (save for re-use), and you are ready to apply your desired overlay mix. I recommend a specific system with over 20 years of documented history. Slate texture is one of the more forgiving texture to apply, and it reacts well with traditional antiquing colors or specially blended acid stains for polymer thin concrete applications. If you are interested in complete step by step instructions, email your request at info@concreteresurfacingnetwork.com Back To Top
3. Although it's possible for any manufacturer to change their formulas, it is unlikely that they would do so without testing, simply to reduce manufacturing costs. If you are experiencing these problems, then all other applicators using this product are also in the same predicament. This is based on the observation that you had success in the past and recent failures. Either the product has changed, or the manner in which it is applied has. I can offer and recommend our product lines, since we have tested and proven their respective applications for the past 15 years. I endorse a system created by the originators of the 1/4" stamping overlay system, which was first introduced at the World of Concrete in 1997. With hundreds of successful residential applications, and thousands of square feet on commercial properties, it is safe to say that this product does not delaminate. Applicator error is most often the culprit, with substandard substrate preparation, and/or changes in dosages and methods of application. Partial delamination has been reported where new substrate cracks telegraph through, or old cracks reappear. This is often due to poor crack repair technique and lack of control joints. Moisture gets in between the layers at the crack, and slowly deteriorates the overlay. This is normally limited to a few inches wide on either side of the crack. We have solutions to these common problems, and offer new technological advancements to avoid the complications you describe. It is my experience that once you have continuous success with a given product and a standard of application, failures are rare. The potential for shrinkage cracks on the surface (those numerous surface hairlines cracks) are normally due to high heat or high wind conditions, which dries the top of the overlay faster then the cement underneath. Keep your surface cool with a constant water mist, and use a polymer concrete retarder for a more homogenous mix.
4. Delamination of an overlay substrate can be due to several factors:
1) Improper surface preparation
2) Hydrostatic pressure
3) Sub-par overlay materials
In order to guarantee the longevity and durability of your concrete overlay application, the floor must be prepped correctly, and the substrate must be stable (Substrate StabilizationT) First, remove the existing overlay - You can shot blast, scarify, or strip and grind the surface. Once you have removed all existing overlay material, pressure wash the surface, and ensure a dust free surface. If you shot blasted with an aggressive pass to remove the overlay, and a medium to light pass to remove any potential existing sealers, you are ready to move on. If you chose to scarify or grind/strip surface, you should follow up with a pressure washer, and to ensure the break up any remaining surface slab tension, acid etch your concrete slab using a 5 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid ratio. Allow the diluted acid solution to work for at least 5 minutes. Use a rotary floor machine to scrub and further etch the floor. Neutralize with ammonia and water (8-10 parts water to 1 part ammonia), rinse and use an industrial wet/dry vacuum to remove the residual. Make a final pass with a pressure washer to remove any remaining residue from the acid etching. Squeegee dry, and you are ready for the overlay application. There are current products referred to as integral sub-surface sealers now available to ensure a waterproof, dense concrete slab, and further reduce any chance of delamination from hydrostatic pressure. These procedures ensure a successful application of a chosen overlay system. For complete details and recommended materials, please follow the following link: Substrate StabilizationT or email your questions at info@concreteresurfacingnetwork.com. Back To Top
5. Before the winter hits, apply a penetrating sub-surface sealer that will repel stains and water, but more importantly minimize potential freeze-thaw damage to your newly stamped surface, and protect your investment. Once weather permits, perform a light pressure wash and apply your final sealer. Refer to the CRN Institute for information on sealers, which may assist you in making an informed decision on the selection of a sealer for your driveway. You can also browse www.hydrocrete.com and obtain detailed information on unique and revolutionary film-less sub-surface penetrating sealers. Since your concrete is still curing, it is best to apply these sealers now. If the concrete is damp when applying, it is not an issue. It penetrates the sub-surface within 1/2 hour. The product penetrates into the concrete through the capillary voids, by ionic attraction to free alkali (cement that did not hydrate), and hydrates such alkali as it comes into contact with it. Upon reacting with the alkali, it forms an insoluble gel which fills the capillary void. This results in integral waterproofing and a denser concrete slab, thereby inhibiting water intrusion and resulting freeze-thaw damage. You can purchase this sealer at www.in2crete.com, an on-line store, which features a complete line of decorative concrete specialty products. For further information, visit www.hydrocrete.com or email your request to: techdata@hydrocrete.com.
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6. If the concrete has cured for at least 28 days, has no surface sealers present, and the ugly broom finish is 1/8" or less deep, there is an easy solution with a proven history. Pressure clean the fresh concrete. Apply a sub-surface penetrating sealer for integral waterproofing to minimize any chance of future moisture related delamination. Apply a Resurfacing coat (very thin) using a specialty tool which is referred to as a metal squeegee. This coating is 1 part cement/1 part micro silica sand, with a 50/50 water/polymer ratio. It bonds tenaciously to the substrate. Follow up with a texture coat mix (1 part cement/2 parts micro silica 30/60 grit) and broom finish. Once complete apply a subsurface topical sealer, and "voila": brand new sealed concrete with NO sheen and a complete natural cement look. If you want to know more, and obtain a detailed How-to DVD or downloadable manuals, please visit www.crninstitute.com/dvdtraining.htm. Back To Top
7. Manufacturers are often too easy when it comes time to "certify" an installer. Most of the time, the restrictions are limited to the financial ability of the installer to buy the starting package. No other real limitations are imposed. It is rare to observe any manufacturer and or re-seller checking on their network of applicators, unless the applicator calls for technical support. The problem is that most manufacturer training programs are limited in their scope in order to prepare a potential applicator to handle the diversity of situations encountered on various jobs. Manufacturers will defend their training, systems, and products based on successful applicators who learned to adapt over the years (often at a heavy cost). Therefore most applicators bear the brunt of the blame for failures. If manufacturers represent their products correctly, they should be more strenuous on qualifying the new applicator/contractor. One needs to remember that the primary income of a manufacturer is through the sale of its products, and not on training or free technical support. For this reason, the CRN Institute offers system guided training programs, and not product driven training. As an applicator you need to have the ability to choose your products and methods of application, based on consistent and duplicable results, and not on the few, who over the years developed methods of successful applications with a given system. The truth is, no single company offers a truly flawless and complete resurfacing system. At CRN, we search and test for products based on consistency, longevity, ease of application, and affordability. Don't buy into costly seminars just yet. You owe it to yourself to check out the on line availability of training DVD's and detailed "How to" books. Once you become familiar with the choices, then choose the workshop that fits your specific interests. To review available training DVD's and Manuals, and for the finest assortment of decorative and resurfacing concrete products and tools, visit www.in2crete.com Back To Top
8. This is a dilemma for most entrepreneurs or contractors who want to engage themselves into the lucrative industry of Decorative Concrete Resurfacing. All of the questions represent valid and real issues confronted by many interested persons. CRN, through the CRN Institute, is first to offer On-Location classes. We come to your location, at your availability, and work with your crews to train and actually perform work contracted by you. If you're in the Midwest, we offer regular monthly training programs at our headquarters located just South of Chicago. Our classes are performed in controlled settings, and completed on REAL jobs. We believe in real life training situations, and found it to be the most educational of all settings. We teach systematic application procedures, based on simple principles. We take the mystery out of confusing issues, and allow you to leave us with the confidence and the ability to duplicate our class programs. We are the first to offer a complete DVD series on all of our course curriculums. This means you can learn at your own pace, in the privacy of your home. You can duplicate our controlled environment, and practice at your leisure. You can also collect each set as you graduate our various classes, and use the literature and DVD's as reference materials, or to train your own recruits in-house. At CRN, we understand your issues, and provide the solutions you need TODAY! Back To Top
9. Our company is well informed on the proliferation of the Latino workforce, and a great supporter of the Latino community. All of our written and DVD courses are available in both English and Spanish. We have monthly Spanish classes at our corporate headquarters, and we are pleased to provide expert teachers and applicators for our On-location and On-the-job training programs who are fluent in Spanish. Back To Top
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