The Concrete Resurfacing Network, Dedicated to the Business of Concrete Resurfacing and Concrete Decorative Resurfacing
HOMEOWNER FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
1: My concrete driveway has several deep cracks, the surface is pitted in large areas, it is discolored, and it seems to get worse every year. A local contractor has given me the option to tear out the driveway and replace it. However it will ruin the grass and plants adjacent to it, and the only guarantee I can expect is that it will most probably crack again! Are there any alternatives to this incredulous situation? Answer
2: Can you really fix the cracks in my driveway so that they don't come back? Answer
3: OK, you've convinced me that my cracks can be repaired, and that resurfacing is the way to go. However, I've heard good and bad reports on concrete resurfacing. It seems that often the applied products delaminate and start falling apart. Repairs often telegraph through the thin overlay and the obvious texture difference creates an eye sore. How can I ensure that my driveway resurfacing does not delaminate, hides all the cracks repairs, has adequate control joints (which are so important in preventing new cracks and old cracks from re-appearing), and somehow manage to have a brand new looking finish? Sounds too good to be true! Answer
4: My concrete is really damaged, I have cracks everywhere, a corner section is missing, and vegetation is growing through the cracks. Am I a resurfacing candidate, or do I need to replace my driveway? Answer
5: I have some cracks and potholes in my concrete I would like to repair. I'm not trying to make it a showpiece, I just want to get rid of those spots and keep them from getting worse! Is there something I can do myself that will really work? Answer
6: What about those Do-It-Yourself Epoxy flake kits you can get from major stores? Answer
7: My concrete is 20 years old. Is it worth fixing and cleaning or should I just replace it? Answer
8: I've seen some beautiful concrete stamps that just fade out. Does that mean concrete pavers or natural stone are really better? Answer
9: Why did part of my driveway just shell off on the surface when it's only a year old? Shouldn't my contractor have to fix it? They say it can't be fixed. Answer
10: How long will an overlay really last? Am I just postponing replacement? Answer
11: The concrete planter box outside of our building has been destroyed by skateboarders. Can it be fixed? Answer
12: I love the concept of decorative concrete and repairing concrete but can I afford it? Answer
13: I've always been told that concrete can't be patched and look good. My contractor says it won't hold up to the freeze and thaw. They have been doing concrete for thirty years and if they are skeptical, shouldn't I be? Answer
14: Doesn't concrete stamping and stamping overlays look fake? Answer
15: My concrete is okay but it isn't level. It puddles and runs water up against my house. What can I do? Answer



1: For years, the only way to repair concrete was to replace it. Patches and crack fillers have been around for years, but let's face it, who really wants a driveway with obvious patches here and there, and that ever popular black rubbery crack filler highlighting every crack in your driveway? I am happy to tell you that there is a viable option to replacement - CONCRETE RESURFACING. The fact is that your concrete damage is limited to the surface, often less then ¼" deep. This is the result of many factors such as freeze/thaw, impact damage, oils, brake fluids, rock salt used for prevention of ice and snow buildups, friction, and impact. Most of these conditions render your concrete surfaces unsightly, and eventually the areas of exposure increase in depth and weaken the substrate as time goes by. The other common concrete surface eye sore, and the most reluctantly accepted are cracks. Cracks are the common denominator in concrete slabs. We hate them, but we accept them as inevitable. Not so. The truth is that most of us won't pay the price to pour a top of the line driveway or patio. The amount of work recommended by the industry gurus would most probably double or more the cost of a normal residential slab. So, are we stuck? No, we are not. If you choose to RESURFACE, in most cases you'll save at least a third of the replacement cost. Secondly, there is no guessing work as to where the slab will stress crack, referred to as structural cracks, and the shrinkage cracks are all pretty obvious at this point. The resurfacing contractor has the advantage of seeing the stress relief point. Now that you know where they are, you can proceed to repair the crack with a proven crack repair system, apply a resurfacing a polymer enhanced cement coating to fill in all of those spalled areas, apply a new broom texture to the first applied coating. Once finished, re-cut existing control joints, and cut new control joints at the identified locations. To finish, apply a colored or clear sealer to your "new" concrete surface. For a complete and thorough understanding of Resurfacing, the reason it works, it's history, and answers to a myriad of questions, check out the DVD "Concrete Resurfacing & YOU" Back To Top



2: It is definitely possible to repair cracks in concrete driveways. After consistent field proven success, I am partial to a 2 part epoxy crack repair system. The epoxy is fast drying, moisture insensitive, and reaches very high compressive strength. Silica sand is added to the epoxy, which adds strength and fills the cracks quickly. Crack repair takes practice, and a complete understanding of the types of cracks found on a typical concrete slab. Once your crack is repaired, it will normally not crack at the repair joint, but it may crack right next to it! Most cracks are the result of slab tension or stress. Adding control joints or expansion joints to relieve the stress ensures a limited probability that the crack will return. It is my experience that if the slab is several years old, in a non-seismic area, and the cracks are studied in order to define the placement of additional control joints or expansion joints, the likelihood of cracks re-appearing at the same location are minimal. The likelihood of new cracks on an older slab are unlikely. The stress points were visible by the cracks that are now repaired, and the chances of new stress points on an old slab are slim. For detailed instructions and a thorough understanding of cracks in concrete, get our DVD: "Concrete Crack Repair - For the beginner and the Professional"



3: I can certainly understand your skepticism; we, as homeowners, have been flustered by fast talking salesman on too many occasions, right? I've had my fair share as a homeowner and a contractor. Let me restate that concrete resurfacing is not new: it's been around for over 20 years. Methods of application are refined, and time tested. Advances in chemical composition and water borne products make it environmentally safe. The mixture of Portland cement, silica sand, water and acrylic polymer additives needed to make resurfacing a reality have not changed much: if a driveway resurfaced in 1986 is still looking new today, then the systems and products work. Proper surface preparation is 90% of the battle to a successful resurfacing application. Application methods, and learned techniques, ensure successful aesthetically correct finishes. The best recommendation I can give you is to check out the contractors and applicators who bid your job. Obtaining three references and a list of professional associations are common place. But I prefer asking them to list their last 3 to 5 jobs, ask if I can call the homeowners, and go see the work for myself. Next, I normally ask to see their oldest job, or a job that is over a year old. Since most all resurfacing application failures happen within the first year, then any job over a year old that is still intact is a good sign of success. With this information, you are now able to make a calculated decision on hiring the proper resurfacing contractor. Additionally, the Concrete Resurfacing Network features listed professionals, with contact information, professional profile and accreditation, years of experience, and references. Finally, to ensure your complete comprehension and assist you in making an informed decision for your specific needs, please visit www.crnamerica.com/homeownerfacts with access to complete detailed literature and "How to" DVD's, as well as an extensive Q&A library. Back To Top



4: Concrete resurfacing is not a miracle cure. Your slab is obviously in a state of disrepair, or at best, the repairs will cost more then the replacement. However, since you need to replace your driveway, here is some valuable information to ensure the best possible concrete. Use revolutionary deep penetrating integral sealer and curing compound to ensure a better concrete. Request an early morning pour so that the sun won't affect the finishers, which has adverse effects on the finishing of the slab. Shrinkage cracks and a "false top" are often the result of a pour on a hot and windy day. Next, make sure your slab has sufficient expansion and control joints. You need to release the surface tension of the slab to minimize stress cracks. Ensure adequate expansion joints at angled turns or when pouring different sections on different days. If you follow these simple guidelines, you can achieve a finished concrete product in good workmanlike manner, and add a topical sealer or subsurface protective sealer, to keep the slab clean and trouble free. Since you are paying dearly for the cost of replacement, you owe it to yourself to make sure your chosen contractor follows these simple guidelines. For complete and detailed information on new concrete pours, refer to www.crninstitute.com/newconcrete Back To Top



5: Yes there is. Professional Homeowner Kits are currently available at www.in2crete.com with complete "How To" manuals and DVD's. You will be pleasantly surprised at the facility of application with the Concrete Patching Kit currently available for sale. Save yourself hundreds of dollars on simple repairs such as cracks, pot holes, and spalled areas. Beautify your garage and basement concrete floors with our complete DuraflekT systems for the Professional HomeownerT. Our featured installation step-by-step procedures are easy to follow. You don't have to be an expert, and we don't care if you've ever worked with concrete in your life! Our easy to use, all inclusive kits make it readily available and affordable for the homeowner to perform basic repairs. Our Acrylic Concrete Stain Sealers are easy to apply to any concrete surface. These stains were previously ONLY available through a professional applicator or contractor. For the 1st time ever, you can take advantage of a totally VOC/VOS compliant, easy to use, and ready to apply concrete color sealer that really works! Our products have 20 years of documented evidence of durability. CRN is here to educate consumers and professionals alike. The systems featured for the Homeowners are based on simple remedies for what used to be reserved to the professional ONLY. Please note, that if you are looking for advanced decorative concrete resurfacing finishes, or your concrete surfaces are badly damaged, CRN highly recommends hiring a trained resurfacing professional. Back To Top



6: Major retailers such as Lowes and Home Depot have capitalized on the success of what we refer to as our DuraflekT granite-like floor finish systems, and sell Epoxy kits off the shelf, targeted at the homeowner. Like most store brands, selling products which were previously ONLY available trough a professional applicator, the off the shelf products have been simplified and diluted to meet the relaxed demands of the amateur installer. As of late, CRN has received numerous requests for remedies on these types of product which are now delaminating. This seems to be a common ill, and the guilt is always passed on to the product. For the most part, the fault is on the lack of preparation of the garage or basement existing concrete floor. Although the products are well made, they are made to adhere to a perfect surface. Agents normally added to increase bonding strength found in higher cost products (mostly reserved for the professional), as well as abrasion and chemical resistance, are diluted at best and omitted at worse. You can't buy products at a reduced cost without sacrificing some of the professional advantages. At www.in2crete.com we sell high grade professional water borne products to the Do-It-Yourselfer at an affordable price, backed with instructional literature and/or DVD's to ensure that the first time applicator, has the knowledge and tools to complete the task in a professional manner. We make sure it looks good, and that it stays that way for a long time! Check out our Professional HomeownerT Series for complete details.
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7: This is one of the most common questions we encounter. The fact is that you can resurface most all concrete structures. The question whether or not it is financially feasible to do so is up to you. If your concrete shows mostly surface damage, along with the traditional stress cracks of yesteryear, then it represents an excellent candidate for resurfacing. If is extremely cracked, giving it a broken-up look, with vegetation abundantly growing through the cracks, the surface damage exceeds 25% of the total thickness of the slab, there are broken or missing corners, then you are basically in a state of disrepair and should opt to replace. A good rule of thumb is that if the replacement cost is less then the repair cost...you know what to do. Back To Top



8: Even the best stamped concrete or interlocking pavers products can't match the natural beauty of real stone. However, real stone is really expensive! The cost of interlocking pavers is about a third less, and concrete stamping is less then half. If the installation is professionally completed, the stamped finished product can make most persons take a second look to see whether or not it's real. Pavers are manufactured concrete shapes, which interlock as they are installed on a sand base. They allow the installer to create mosaic type designs, and come in complimentary colors and textured finishes. In order to preserve their original beauty, it is necessary to seal them. Stamped concrete is a process used on freshly poured concrete. Until recently all stamped concrete was finished with antiquing release powders and sealed with acrylic based urethanes. Today, stamped concrete can be finished with liquid releases, allowing the applicator to add 2 to 3 colors to his textures and then seal in the antiquing with an acrylic based urethane clear top coat. The results are a more natural looking stamp texture. The sealer eventually wears thin, and if not replaced, the stamp colors fade and the stamp becomes bland and unattractive. The same is true of any stone or pavers described above. Sealers lock in the natural beauty of all aggregates and/or substrates. Once they wear off, the surfaces are subject to weather damage, freeze/thaw, dirt, abrasion wear, stains, and plain misuse. Surfaces age, get dirty, loose their original luster and the natural or man-made colors fade away. To answer your question, you must first understand your options and your budget limitations. Once you make your choice, be aware of the limitations of the individual system you chose, and above all, keep it sealed! If none of the above satisfy you, remember that ¼" stamping overlays can be applied to any stable surface, offer the most natural finishes and color variations, combined with varied and mixed textures to create unique and fantasy like settings. As with all finished decorative substrates, the finished overlay must be sealed in order to preserve its original pristine-like appearance. No matter what system you choose, seal it...and re-seal it every three to five years! Back To Top



9: There are two basic reasons for early surface deterioration: A "false-top" and in cold climates, freeze/thaw damage. The "false-top" is the result of applicator error. The symptoms closely resemble natural freeze/thaw damage. Concrete which is poured on a hot day, and/or a windy day, is subject to finishing problems. Finishing is defined as texturing the top of the concrete. Most driveways and patios are finished with a "Broom" texture, which is applied as the concrete starts to cure and the moisture rises to the surface. This rise results in a "cream" like appearance on the top of the slab. This stage allows for the finishers to use tools referred to as Fresno's (large trowels with rounded edges attached to a long handle), and start finishing the surface. Once the surface tension is appropriate, a broom is whisked over the concrete, slightly scratching the surface and creating small ridges. This process is referred to as a broom finish. Concrete dries from the inside out, and if the surface is subject to heat and/or wind, the water evaporates too quickly and the top of the concrete dries faster then the bottom (this also results in shrinkage or plastic cracks, which are tiny, shallow cracks found on the surface of the concrete slab), creating havoc for the finishers, since they are not able to texture the "hot" surface in a timely manner. In order to prevent a finish disaster, the finisher mists the top of the concrete with water, allowing additional time to work the concrete. Most consumers can't see the harm in such an action: after all, if cement hardens, and you add water to it, and it softens up again. WRONG! The added water re-hydrates the top layer of the cement which is now curing at a different pace then the concrete layer below. In effect, you have two separate layers that are curing at different rates and you loose the molecular bond normally encountered from a monolithic pour. The result is not immediately visible. In fact, the concrete slab looks really good at the onset. Within a year or two, however, noticeable surface damage starts to appear on the top of your slab. This damage is topical and limited to 1/8" to 1/4" deep. Half dollar to quarter size shallow chunks simply start to pop up from the base slab. This continues to spread gradually, until over time, the majority of the surface is flawed. Freeze/thaw trapped moisture damage is different. Concrete is porous, and naturally finished concrete will absorb water within it's tiny capillary infrastructure. Once this water is trapped and freezes, it expands. This expansion may create the rupture of shallow chunks of concrete. If the expansion of the frozen moisture does not pop the chunk off, it will loosen it, and the following thaw and resulting pressure release, will completely loosen the affected area. The difference between freeze/thaw and a false-top is the amount of visible damage. Freeze/thaw is most often observed where moisture gathers the most, such as control joints and expansion joints. THE CRN CURE: If you are pouring concrete soon, have your contractor pour in the early morning on expected hot & windy days; use the exclusive Hydrocrete False-Top Saver solution should your concrete pre-maturely cure at the top; apply a curing seal - Refer to our XtremecureT literature for a comprehensive dissertation on the importance and methods of concrete curing. THE CRN SOLUTION: If you are a current victim of false-top or freeze/thaw induced concrete surface erosion, you are a perfect candidate for a resurfacing overlay. You have many choices to consider: from a simple broom finish to an elaborate multi-texture ¼" stamp overlay. Your preparation is limited to a single solution: Pressure wash the surface at very close range to ensure that all loose concrete pieces are removed and the aggregate below is exposed: integrally seal and densify the concrete substrate with the application of the revolutionary HydroSealT integral sealer; apply your desired finish. Once you apply our cure or solution, you are assured years of carefree enjoyment and usage from your concrete surfaces. Back To Top



10: The best part of an overlay is that it cures to be harder, yet more flexible then the concrete substrate it covers. The answer to longevity is based on the concrete substrate below the overlay, and not the other way around. This is the reason CRN advocates the Substrate StabilizationT program. We are convinced, based on our 20 years of experience, that any overlay is only as good as the substrate it is applied to. If the overlay is installed correctly over a stable substrate, it will last over 20 years. (We can't go any further yet, since our oldest job is slightly over 20 years old! We'll let you know how we fare on our 30th year of experience!) Back To Top



11: It can be fixed with an attractive solution to cure the damage and prevent new skateboarding damage! CRN offers exclusive application procedures and product systems created from unique opportunities in finding simple solutions to complex issues. One of these is the Tuff-Grit® system. Using a proprietary formula of very hard aggregates, mixed with epoxies and coated with attractive and very tough urethanes, this application finishes with a very hard medium to coarse textured coating. It cures the unsightly marks and dings left by the skateboarders, while giving the planter edges a creative appearance. Once the skateboarders try to slide on the resurfaced area, the skateboard comes to a grinding halt. This discourages the skateboarder from repeating the deed, as the experience is unpleasant, and the Tuff-Grit® scratches the finish from the base of their beloved skateboard. Back To Top



12: This is the biggest misconception in need of immediate clarification. Resurfacing is far less costly then the alternatives. Decorative concrete interiors are NOT limited to the rich and famous. Although most of you will browse websites and magazines with incredible artistic and beautiful floors, your options to get a well designed, functional, attractive, and durable decorative finish in or out of your home are all very affordable. Decorative concrete resurfacing can start from as low as $ 2.50 to $ 3.50 per square foot. The high is based on your taste and budgets. There are no limits to your imagination. If you can dream it, it can be created! It should be noted that our experience shows a medium range for decorative residential application to be in the $6.50 to $10 per square foot range. Back To Top



13: Your contractor is right. If you use a regular concrete patch mix, and patch your driveway (as an example), you can be assured that it will fail within a relatively short time. The only way a concrete patch can work on an existing concrete slab is if you are using additional chemicals to induce and guarantee a bond between old and new. There are epoxy based products which mimic cement when dry. You add the sand, and the product does the rest. Others are based on the addition of polymers to the cement mix, and yet another system is to have a pre-mixed polymer resin which is added to cement and sand for patching purposes. The fact is simple: You must use an additional catalyst in order to ensure a successful patch.
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14: Finishes can be made to look as real as it gets. The secrets are color application, integral color variations, and the type of sealer applied to the finished product. CRN Institute's stamping overlay courses cover the basics to the elaborate. When you complete our courses, you are confident and self-assured of your results, with easily duplicable systems and incredible finishes. Back To Top



15: You can certainly use a polymer modified overlay to level an existing surface. Proper surface preparation and application of CRN recommended patching and leveling mixes can virtually guarantee a successful resurfacing job. Please remember, once you level a low area, you may create others. It is best to run a level line in the direction of the desired runoff, establishing a 1/8" drop per linear foot from the high point to the low point. Then skim coat the entire surface, paying special attention to low areas, or "bird bath" depressions, and level completely. This is the best way to get an even surface. It is often difficult to level existing concrete surfaces, and the clearances are not always available. When performing leveling work, you should inform the customer that it is impossible to guarantee the complete surface, as you are subject to physical limitations imposed by the original contractor who poured the slab. Back To Top
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